PANGANI TO DAR ES SALAAM TO ZANZIBAR

Route: Pangani did 56km on corral road to Muheza then tar to Mata - Bagamoyo - Dar es Salaam. 340 km. 6hrs.

 The corral road must eat tyres and was a little rough but after that was good tar all the way. Stopped in Maheza for a mango , and then they mob you and then they want money or food and are relentless and I now just say no but they keep on and on. The homicidal bus and truck drivers are still driving me off the road daily , so at least expect it now. Arrived at the ferry and took some photo's and then was ordered into the office and I refused to go and had a helluva argument with them , missed the ferry and had to wait for the next one. They wanted money and did not get any and then let me leave . Got to Makati Camp and the two doctors , Meg and Matthew arrived an hour after me , so we had a great evening catching up.

 We all left the next day and left our bikes at KTM , as they were having new tyres put on , so the owner is a super nice guy and allowed me leave the bike there while we popped over to Zanzibar. Took two hours on the ferry ($35) and we were in Zanzibar and found a real nice place in Stone Town ($25) and then walked the town flat and got to sleep in a bed , was wonderful.

MAMBO VIEW POINT TO PAGANI. 230KM. 6HRS

Route: Mtae down 20kms on a track for bikes only. 3000ft + - descent to valley floor then NE to Mnazi - Lela - Bobo - Mapatano the turn S through Ubale to Muheza. Good dirt road for 185 km. Spectacular scenery.

 Drove through the mountains for 90km to Mambo Cliff Lodge. Roads are great and just twists and turns the entire way passing through villages all along the way. Had to stop and ask for directions a few times and then 30 people will gather around the bike and they will debate amongst themselves which way I should go , they are super friendly and always happy.

The campsite is on the cliff and has an absolutely stunning view and at 6000ft you have a panoramic view of the valley below. I was aghast at the view below , I had no preconceived idea what to expect so was blown away at the beauty.

The South Africans , Annie and Phillip also came along in their Land Rover so we had a great time and had dinner and beer and wine and many laughs.

Had breakfast with them and then departed down the mountain on a bike track down for like 3000ft in 20 km, was I in over my head again , but made it down . Was a stunningly beautiful ride on good gravel, clay roads and I have never seen such brilliant red clay roads against the green of the rain forest foliage was quite remarkable. A memorable ride for sure , and then headed to Pagani to the Peponi Lodge and Campsite, where I am camping 8ft from the beach ! The water is so warm , actually to warm but feels real good to take a dip in the ocean again. I expected the beach to be nicer than it is, not that there is anything wrong with it , nicer beaches in South Africa but I think The beaches in Zanzibar are going to be spectacular. Met Gerry and Polly , and their two wonderful kids who were born here and speak Swahili.Gerry is a Scientist here dealing with malaria for the last 14 years and being Irish had a great sense of humor and enjoyed a beer or two. Polly is Brazilian and way to nice for Gerry and a doting mother and very kind hearted and they live down south and gave me a bunch of places not to be missed. They are on their way to the Serengeti and even invited me along which is very tempting. We had many laughs on Polly's expense over a few beers and a great dinner.

MAP OF TANZANIA

NAIROBI TO LUSHOTO, TANZANIA

Nairobi to Arusha. 319km. 7hrs. Thursday

 Moshi to Lushoto. 390km. 9hrs. Friday

 Tar road all the way, getting out of Nairobi in the morning was a mess and my GPS map disappeared off the screen but made it out. The border was a breeze and back in Tanzania the police are out in force with their radar guns. When they stop me all they talk about is the bike , how fast can it go and how much does it cost ? Only been asked twice in Uganda for my license and showed them my false one and they stare at it and give it back and then wish you a safe trip.

 The camp I went to was shut down so found another one which was a lot nicer anyway , and the manager , a German lady came down to welcome me and then that evening in the lounge could not stop talking to me but was very interesting. 

Went to Moshi and got a peek at Kilimanjaro briefly through the clouds and then had some breakfast and decided not to climb it as I eat to much. 

The tar road is in excellent shape but every village has speed bumps and police so you can't make good time and then stopping to take pictures of the wrecks and yack with the locals , takes up a lot of time. Then I could not find the camp , the gps sent me all over to the wrong places and after an hour being lost , finally found it. 

There were a South African couple from Stellenbosch camping there and came right over to greet me and then handed me an ice cold beer , the only thing I had drunk all night.